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I totally agree with David’s advice there. If you have no need for additional light sources you should have no problem timing out the excessive green tint – or you might just like it! As David says, if you see green outside you might expect the inside to reflect the same source rather than something that is purely ‘white’.
You might try adding household bulbs and sockets around that hanging fixture. I can’t imagine it ever featuring in shot and a brighter soft source in this central position could be nice. You could always cut the sides with a circle of silver foil if you wanted to concentrate the light from it in the center of the room and have a little more fall off.
As I said, it depends on the width of your shot. In full sunlight, a red head held a few feet away from a face would fill in shadows in the same way as a sun gun but why would you not use a bounce in that situation? I am sure that both Chivo and Josh Richards would prefer to use a large soft reflector than a small bright light however powerful that might be. I would also think it rare for either cinematographer to regularly use any additional light when shooting exteriors.
I’m sure this space would allow you to float a light balloon of which there are various alternatives.
I have used very lightweight ‘ring lights’ in similar situations and rigged them to the existing chandeliers using a batten or pipe stretched between the chains. With even a large ring of LEDs (Bi color strips or something similar) the entire rig could be quite lightweight.
You could also span the room with a pipe that would sit above the cornice or on supports that are set against the walls. You could span the space by creating your own support structure completely detached from the existing architecture and ‘art directed’ to appear part of the original. I have done this and rigged multiple rings of bulbs from such a support system but it does require a lot of prep and considerable trust.
The film was designed and shot to be seen at 2.39:1, full stop. What is done on YouTube is what is done on YouTube.
The river work was done during the day but with quite dense cloud cover. In that we were lucky as we had one day to shoot and it only clouded up at mid afternoon. If I had thought we could have shot the rest of the transitions between night and dawn during full daylight I would have done that. Trying to shoot complex shots in a window of about 30 minutes is quite stressful.
Yes, there are certainly many things you can achieve in the DI and using effects but, personally, I prefer reality.
Maintaining contrast on a cloudy day? If you want more contrast then, yes, use negative fill or a lamp. But there is no rule and you have to make that judgement from script to script and shot to shot.
That’s hard! I love B&W and it seems to me that color works in a different way. A color image is obviously far more naturalistic and it is hard to use the same kind of expressionistic lighting using color. Maybe, there can be something equivalent as in ‘Seven’, for instance.
I’m not sure what you are referring to specifically. Objective? In what sense do you use the word and can you let me have specific examples.
The night scenes in ‘True Grit’ were lit using HMI l.amps and tungsten balanced film stock. I was using Musco lights for the large night scenes in ‘NCFOM’, which are similarly cool lamps, whilst also HMI lamps for other night scenes.
You should just experiment with the par light as you seem comfortable with it. We all have different ways of working so it is not for me, or anyone else, to say what is ‘best’. I have used par lamps to bounce and as a direct source, whether through diffusion or simply raw so its not that I am against the lamp I just have my own preferences in certain situations.
I carried a couple of Red Heads when I was shooting documentaries but to augment daylight might be a stretch. of course, it all depends on the level of daylight and the width of your shot. By the time you color correct the lamp and push it through diffusion you are not looking at a very powerful source.
They are quite uneven in their beam shape and a single unit is not as efficient as a 650 Red Head or a 2K Blonde. If you use multiple par bulbs in a 6 or 9 light you will struggle for control. Now, a Maxi into a 12′ x 12′ can work but that is when you are working at a larger scale. I have bounced a Dino and a Wendy light on a large set.
If you care and are trying to find something more than just a recording of what is in front of you, whether a film is large or small, there are always ‘obstacles’ and ‘frustrations’. Rarely, if ever, is the result as good as you hoped it would be when you imagined it.
While it may be an interesting idea to study the composition of those three great directors it could only be a very limited and personal ‘practical demonstration’ of what constitutes the greatest shots. I will not start a list of what I would consider the ‘greatest shots’ as it would take me far too much time but Sergio Leone? Tarkovsky? Zvyagintsev? …. And in 10 minutes! I wish it were that easy!
