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In camera BTW! Only moving cars added to the street below.
Maybe! Some day!
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This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by
Roger Deakins.
You could say ‘Sicario’ used two perspectives. I’m not sure why one character would see any differently than another but the movement of the camera and the lighting might differ.
As to using a wide lens in a story with only one character. Is that true? Some directors like to use wide lenses, as do some cinematographers but for a character point of view? I can’t see that.
Those are a lot of question and a full answer would make a book.
The reason using the bounce light for the Omori Restaurant scene in ‘Unbroken’ was to do with the restricted space I had outside the windows. A large bounce source with my lamps on stands below was a far more efficient alternative to using a grid of small lamps, which would create a similar soft source, and raising them up to the right angle.
Quality of light, aperture and cost – in that order.
I think the quote from Conrad was in reference to a specific use of a lamp at full spot.
The LEDs I used on ‘Empire’ were multi color so I could dim them and warm them up to get the same effect as I would do with a tungsten source.
A clear bulb gives a cleaner shadow. In a practical that might look ‘right’ or it might be ‘better’ with a frosted bulb.
I do very little in the DI, other than for ‘O Brother’ that is. And I don’t look at a histogram. The white is the white but, of course, looking at a dvd is not like looking at a cinema screen and, even if I have overseen the transfer, its not ever the same. I don’t remember my approach to ‘Elah’ being that different. Obviously, every story is different so it does not look like ‘No Country’ or ‘Prisoners’, two films that look diametrically different.
I don’t generally use an eye light. That’s something I only use for a specific effect.
I would only use the 500 stock when I really needed to. I much preferred the lower speed stocks and used both the 100 and 200 Tungsten balanced emulsions. I rarely used the daylight emulsions as I felt they were a little saturated.
I would only set my meter to the rating suggested by Kodak. I would then under or overexpose depending on what effect I was after and where I wanted my exposure to lie relative to the range within the frame. But, either changing the rating or adjusting your exposure after taking a normal reading is basically doing the same thing. Overdeveloping is different. You can change the contrast by doing this, shift the colors and also add grain.
I was placed on the Graphic Design course without having a say in the matter. I wanted to be in Fine Arts and had no intention of being a designer but I did find a passion for photography, so it wasn’t all bad.
I was in the process of testing the Master Prime lenses and I did end up shoot most of the film with them.
I was in the process of testing the Master Prime lenses and I did end up shoot most of the film with them.
I was in the process of testing the Master Prime lenses and I did end up shoot most of the film with them.
The angle of the light to the light to the bounce can alter the size and the shape of the source you create. Whether a lamp is above and rigged to the ceiling or on the floor on a low boy or ‘turtle’ is usually just about space and convenience.
You can double the muslin but it doesn’t make so much difference. The light going through it could be a problem though, and bounce around to interfere with the contrast of the shot.
If I have a series of lamps bouncing off a wide reflector I may, repeat may, dim the lamps to the sides and also warm them up to create a softer fall off and a warmth reaching into the shadow area. I might do that but it is no means necessary.
Whether I gel a light and with what strength of gel in order to maintain color balance is a decision based on the script, the scene and the individual shot. Maybe, you would like the daylight to be blue’ish and the interior lights to be warm. Maybe not.
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This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by
Roger Deakins.
Looks very good. Regarding that bulb – a small quartz bulb would have looked a little more like a flame. But who is really looking at that. Nice job!
Max,
The photo is interesting! I had forgotten I had this rig on the ceiling. The main lighting was the Par lamps coming through the windows but I did have this rig for any bounce I might need. I used 2K Blondes as I wanted a wide spread of the lamp on the bounce material and, therefore, a very soft source. The lamps were either bouncing off unbleached muslin that was laid on the floor or off 4′ x 4′ sheets. I had this rig, rather than lamps on stands, as there were many so people in the scene and I didn’t want my lighting to get in the way. Besides that, the lamps could aim over the extras and bounce off muslin close to the wall.
In a case like this I will ask for a rig to be put up knowing it might only be necessary for one or two angles or even not at all. But it is better to have it than struggle during the shooting day with lamps on stands.
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This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by
Roger Deakins.
The depth of field of a 40mm is the same whatever the size of the sensor. With a standard Alexa you would need to shoot on a 32mm (some say wider) to match the field of view of a 40mm on a Large Format camera. A small adjustment to the iris will not change the ‘feel’ of that lens. The additional latitude and resolution of the LF can be an advantage over the standard Alexa but that would not be my main consideration when choosing one camera over the other. The ‘feel’ of the lens is uppermost in my mind.
The ‘Byways’ experience has already been a great success and inspirational for us. We hope to continue with similar events as the one at Deborah’s gallery. Our next will take place in Dallas.
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This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by
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